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Nitrous
In vehicle racing (and road cars), nitrous oxide (often referred to as just "nitrous" in this context to differ from the acronym NOS which is the brand Nitrous Oxide Systems) is sometimes injected into the intake manifold (or prior to the intake manifold), some systems directly inject right before the cylinder (direct port injection) to increase power. The gas itself is not flammable, but it delivers more oxygen than atmospheric air by breaking down at elevated temperatures, allowing the engine to burn more fuel and air and resulting in more powerful combustion. Nitrous oxide is stored as a compressed liquid; the evaporation and expansion of liquid nitrous oxide in the intake manifold causes a large drop in intake charge temperature, resulting in a denser charge, further allowing more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinder. The lower temperature can also reduce detonation.


One of the major problems of using nitrous oxide in a engine is that it can produce enough power to damage or destroy the engine. Very large power increases are possible, and if the mechanical structure of the engine is not properly reinforced, the engine may be severely damaged or destroyed during this kind of operation. It is very important with nitrous oxide augmentation of internal combustion engines to maintain proper operating temperatures and fuel levels to prevent preignition, or detonation.

sorry thought i would finish the title of the thread off.
 

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How long would a bottle of nitrous oxide usually last for? is it something that is gonna cost you alot of cash everythime you wanna use it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How long does a cylinder of nitrous oxide last?
Just like your petrol tank it is not long enough between refills, especially when you first fit the kit and play with it as you would a new toy. However once you get past this playful stage you begin to realize what a useful boost nitrous is, and only use it when necessary, then the bottle seems to last forever before you need a refill. It is impossible to put a time to how long a bottle will last, there are around 3 different sizes of cylinder, the biggest lasting five times as long as the smallest. Besides the size of the nitrous bottle, the size of the nitrous jet (which determines the amount of power increase, and consequently the rate of the nitrous usage) can be changed from as little as 5 bhp to as much as 100bhp, obviously the bigger the jet uses more nitrous more rapidly, to be exact 20 times more rapidly. With this in mind, a big bottle with a small jet will last the longest (approx 60 mins of continuous use).

To add extra confusion to the calculations, if you fit a powamax 700 progressive nitrous delivery system, you the user can alter the power and consequently the consumption of the nitrous, however the good news is that a powermax 700 makes the nitrous last approx twice as long as a normal nitrous system.

It's all down to you, as you control how often you hit the button.
 

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I had a 11IB bottle on my R32 , cost me £65 to have it re-filled (pod) theres cheaper places ,i used get a good day on the strip (about 6 to 8 runs) bearing in mind i never used to kick it in till i was in third gear so out of a 1/4 mile i would only use about 5 to 8 sec burst , Purging your system uses more looks kool when you've got a twin purge system like mine two 6-8ft long streams of nos lol . As a rule of thumb if your engine has 100bhp it can handle 25bhp , 200bhp can do 50bhp . BUT IT MUST BE A WET SYSTEM ONLY when you get a jet of nos and petrol into the nossle . DRY SYSTEMS are only for the big boys V8's that have over 300/400plus in the first place then it gets hardcore direct port injection , digtal nos controllers, mega bucks . Its good fun tho but it nothing like the films tho you don't press a button then go into wrap speed (thats only big bhp drag cars) you'll just increase your acceleration to change up your gears faster. pound for pound it is the cheaper short term power increase you'll ever get , but keep it for the drap strips only . I've never blown an engine up with nitous but you have to be sensible with it (ie if you've got a 100bhp std civic don't try and put 100bhp nos through it it would be your fastest 1/4 mile ever but the last one that engine would ever do lol.
 

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My R32 GTR had 600bhp i was runing 100bhp jets of nos /fuel it made just over 700bhp and was a f**ker lol to keep straight when it came in. Most of my nos went on posing lol i used to turn up at shows hit the purge and show off lol. Its get fun having nos but its very adictive and should be kept for drag racing really where you have no one in front of you ,or is going to pull out on you or change lane on you on the motorway lol. i know lol ,
 

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On my standard ESi, what kinda bhp nos should i setup, i think iam running the standard 123-127hp??

This post is really good, explains alot :D
 

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It depends on what you mean by standard ESI , I wouldn't put nos on a standard engine ,you would have to do all the normal bolt on stuff first ie cold air induction kit , manifold 4-2-1 (4-1 is just too loud i know lol) good colder running plugs , good ht leads.To make it work to its full.Then how are you going to use it / control it ? you can (like most wet kits ) set it up with a micro swith and a bracket that you fit on your throttle body so when its 3/4 open (NO LESS) it hits the switch and away you go it opens the NOS s/noid the fuel s/noid to your jet fitted before the throttle opening but after the AFM (they don't like nos/fuel on them) and there you go. Or by having a button on the gearstick/steering wheel where the system is armed but will only come on when you press it so YOU are in charge of what gear it come in , how far the throttle is open and for how long (good fun lo) . The better way by using a digtal NOS controller which does it for you , you can set it to come in at what gear you want , how long the burst , what % of burst you wants etc, they RETARD your ignition . (its the way to go really) I have used both the press the button method and the controller method. The button method is alot cheaper then the controller but YOU are responsiable and it can ONLY be your fault if you kami-karzi your engine. So after all of that no more than 25bhp. But before you reach for the computer to get a kit of ebay check that your insurance company will cover you and if they do it won't be for road uses ! SO why bother . NOS in my opion is for RWYB strip days to knock a second or two of your time. Its up to you what you do with your car , how you use it , what you fit to it lol.
 

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Good reply thanks, i was going to bolt on Skunk2 throttle body,intake manifold and exhaust manifold first, i already have an aem long arm cold air induction kit and i will get sum obx leads and good plugs before thinking about it.
I think i will give the buttons a shot on the steering wheel, i want to have full control.

Thanks again :)
 

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Kool , i would also look at a AEM fuel rail (bit dear) but there can handle the extra fuel i'll be throwing in plus they have an extra port for a nitrous/fuel jet ,they cut down on fuel pulsing (so i'm told) and they look kool lol . If you have already took care of getting more cold air in and are sorting a better flowing manifold thats good , just make sure you giv the throttle body a light polish on the inside (it does help flow) same with the intake manifold if it hasn't been done (no sharp edges on the inside of the intakes) Also get the up-grade intake manifold gasket (the blue one that cuts down on intake temps) Your sorting the exhaust out which is good , your sorting the leads and plugs which good. You will have to come to a compermise on ignition time'in normally you would advans the diz abit to get abit more umph but with nitrous you have to retard it , so if your is at standard hasn't been messed with leave it alone (you wan't be using that bigger nos injection). If your going to use the button method i would myself wire/fit the button on the gear stick close the gearknob (so one hands on the steering wheel anyway and the other is guna be on the stick ) plus if you get the stupid question wots the button for tell um its the ejectorseat lol. The button on the steering wheel can get the wires going to the button in aright mess as you turn from lock to lock. See how you get on . As a bit of a tip as you know your car , i would start with small jets ie 10/15 bhp to see how you get on , see if it changes from normal on your engine ie temp , sound etc before you go to the max of 30 ish bhp but remember nos jet'tin is like turn'in the boost up on a turbo you wouldn't turn a new turbo set-up to 2 bar straight away would you lol. Hope you get it all sorted and up and runing ok mate , have some safe fun with it lol.
 

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TURBO lol. ok WET NOS kit £500/600 for 50 to 80bhp gain fit it yourself sorted, garage £300 to £400, NOS controller £300, £50 refills. Good turbo kit £2000 , then good boost controller AVCR £280 , body mods to fit intercooler , Fitting kit itself pro garage job £1500 ,Hondata S300 £350 , Re-map plus rolling sections to get it right £1000 . Thats 5K so far for a good turbo set up .NOS set up 1K if you fit it yourself, 1.5K garage fit , Seeing a NOS set up in a car priceless , Turbo whooossssh dump valve mmm errr nice lol. A turbo set up on a honda at most will get you 50 to 80 bhp ON A STD engine (no rebuilt forged rods,pistons here) same with a NOS set up on a std engine a gain of 50 to 80 bhp .

TURBO SET UP = 5K plus

NOS SET UP = 1K plus

If you have got 5k to spend on a turbo kit for a 1.6 honda civic fair play to you go for it .

Mind you , you can import a R32 GTR for 3.7K now lol. Supra twin turbo 5K , Rx7 3K , Evo 4 4K .

Nos is the cheapest way to get a big gain for the lowest cash output .
 
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