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Discussion Starter #1
just looking for a ballpark figure for fitting a turbo ? if anyone has done it and what other parts did you need?
 

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£2000 parts for a kit, then fitting is probably nearing £800, depending on where you go. the greddy kit has ecu intercooler all pipes and brackets.

only problem is you will blow it. its designed to run 10 psi which is sometimes okay on the stock internals. the lower compression ratio of the d series engine takes better to it but i wouldnt recommend doing more than 5psi which isnt really worth the money for a power increase.

to use the full 10 psi and reliably you will need to change pistons and head gaskets etc and "build" the engine. which you might as well make a custom turbo kit so to run more boost. this would be a larger turbo, intercooler, custom mapping etc which in parts with pistons and internals you would be looking at more like £3500-4000 but then you would be seeing fuel dissapear before your eyes, as well as tires etc. could be running anywhere around 300hp but with lots of lag.

if you've spent money doing it properly you will want to look after it, so a £40+ fill of synthetic oil every 3000 miles as well as spark plugs every 10k as well as probably using premium fuel. so you might just think 120hp isnt that bad.....(160 isnt that bad either but costs more in fuel)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
my mates got a volvo T4 turbo with an in car adjustable boost valve, he reakons it will fit. any ideas?
 

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the stock D internals some poeple rate at 275whp, but the reccomened "safe" is 200-220whp, it's hp not PSI that breaks motors. i know of people running 400whp on fully built daily driver cars, and one running 735whp drag.

im importing my full turbo kit for a company in the states called http://www.go-autoworks.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and he is throughing in a walbro fuel pump, 440cc injectors, sparks and slim fan for about £1600, and im getting a base map and install kit from http://www.xenocron.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; till i get to a dyno.

so on top im going to need an EBC and boost gauge £350?

what sort of power goals are you aiming for?

whats your budget?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its a bit tight! but dont mind buying bits every month or savin if i have to. lookin for 200 brake max also looking into a i.5 vetec conversion first

Edit:

and cheers for the links will check them out soon
 

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if your only looking for 200whp the greddy kit will be fine, but ditch the blue box and get a propper tune.

on top of that kit you will need:

fuel pump
injectors
intercooler (i dont think the kit comes with one?)
manual/electronic boost controller
boost gauge

if you take edd up on his offer of that d15 swap, you might aswell build it for boost before you swap it in and get an extra 100-150 whp.

what engine do you currently have?

what are you planning on using the car for? track, drag, pleasure?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
is a D15z6 the vtec then ? im not that well educated on hondas yet .
what car is it out of?
The cars is for everyday use and pleasure everynight . its a 1.5 sohc ej2 1995 coupe think its about 100 bhp and has no trouble with the local boys
 

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you have the d15b7 105hp non VTEC.

the d15z6i s out of the 95-97 ek hatch back and produces 115hp and is VTEC.

the main pain in the arse with the swap will be the ecu's, you at the moment have an obd1 and the d15z6 is obd2. you want to keep your current ecu beacuse it is far more tunable then an obd2.

to do this you will need a conversion harness which you wil most like have to import from states to allow your obd2 sensor adapt to your obd1 ecu and then have a base map made by http://www.xenocron.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. i think your ecu may already be VTEC enabled with designated wires but i can look ito it if you really want to persue it.

if all this sounds to complicated then its ok because your non VTEC engine will actually be better for boost, this is beacuse the VTEC creates more valve overlap which will throw protenial power out the exhaust which could of been built up.

if the cars just purely for the street then dont go for more then 230whp because it will cause far to much under steer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
alrite thanks think i got that. you lads know the stats!
If i put a vtec from the same year/model as mine woud i have to get a harness still?.
thanks again
 

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engine swaps isnt one of my best area's of knowledge, but as far as i know if you were to use a VTEC engine out of an eg/ej 92-95 civic's which are all obd1 you should only need the motor and the ecu to corrospond with the motor with relevant senors, as the harness will be the same (i think) or you chip your current ecu with a base map for the new VTEC engine.

whats your mechanical/electrical knowledge like?

there is a dedicated forum for just honda engine swaps which would be worth looking.

http://www.hondaswap.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

but if you seriously want to boost use your non VTEC motor.
 

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Although I don't really like people sending others away from HCF, I can definitely vouch for Honda Swap and say that it is filled with good info.
 

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sorry about that but its to good a resource not to look at if your swapping.

im sure if he "RESEACHED" a bit he would of found it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i work on all my cars and bike because i cant pay someone if i can do it (it hurts to part with money) my knowledge is what iv had to fix on mine, friends and familys cars, i have had short stints in the motor trade but struggle with working indoors. i aint scared to losen off a few bolts. the first time i do anything its tricky but with good clear instructions any monkey can fix anything. ITS just nuts bolts clamps and conectors

i prefer the idea of a turbo im going to change the brakes and suspension set up first and start collecting turbo conversion parts

thanks for your input that took alot of effort and phone calls of my head

cheers again
twat nav
 

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no problem bud.

just a few things to check/do before a turbo install is compression check, head gasket (depending on mileage) arp head bolts if your going to take the head off, new belts all round and oil change. just make sure your engine is in good working order.

and aways buy quality parts :) (no xs power sh*t)

boost away and have fun.
 

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How many miles are on your current engine? You may not want to boost it if there are too many miles on it, unless ofcourse you strip and rebuild it.
 

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thats exactly what im doing.

im just going to get the kit on and set up, then do some body work and then build another d16z6 for some serious power. 450+ ish im aiming for.

how long till you start your motor build?

you rebuilding to honda specs or low compression?

what engine are you rebuilding? d15b7?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
still decideing, proberly the same as i got then bolt a blower on, just for easy of transplant.
once i done a straight swap ill be able to think about the work needed in a conversion
 

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yea it's the easiest way tbh and your be able to make plenty of power if you build the bottom end before, and if you can do the work yourself it shudnt be to expensive (mind you i dont know how ready avalible components are for the d15) and if your building it on the side you can take your time with it.
 
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