Lightening the flywheel – the flywheel works in a similar way to the wheel in the toy cars you used to rev up and release and let it zoom off. The heavy wheel located between the engine and the gearbox builds up rotational force with speed and momentum.
Effectively storing the energy and helping the car resist changes in engine speed - good for cruising at a steady speed but bad when you need a fast engine response.
Drawbacks – it takes effort to get the wheel rotating and stops the engines revs increasing or slowing down quickly. A lighter wheel takes strain off the engine and allows the engine to rev more freely, as a bonus as there is less weight the engine is able to release more power.
You’ll notice a race-tuned engine increases and decreases revs a lot more quickly than a standard engine. The big downside to a lighter flywheel is that engine momentum or inertial spin is reduced – most noticeably on a hill.
Whereas the momentum in the engine is maintained with a heavy flywheel the momentum is reduced and the hill has a much more direct effect on the engine output. Best used in a race situation where the track is flat with a demand for fast engine speed changes and the engine has been tuned to output power matching the flywheel capacity (high revving).
The driver will often heel and toe gearchange and braking taking advantage of the greater responsiveness from the engine. Various weight of flywheel are available allowing you to get the best torque/free revving capabilities.
Different grades of flywheel are available for different situations. If you feel tempted to make your own light weight flywheel by drilling holes in it I urge you to reconsider.
Even standard flywheels that are put into cars are balanced. A wobble in the flywheel can have disastrous consequences on the engine and will reduce your red line significantly. A fly wheel that breaks will send a buzz saw of metal through the car potentially causing injury to driver and passenger.
Off the shelf lightened flywheels are carefully balanced and made of various alloys blended for strength and lightness - some even come with holes and gaps like an alloy wheel. If you are replacing a clutch you may just as well get the flywheel sorted while you are at it.
If you are serious about lightning bits and pieces to get a free revving engine try a carbon fibre drive shaft. These will rotationally flex more than their metal counterparts and reduce strain on the engine. If a metal drive shaft breaks you will soon know about it as parts are thrown through the car! A carbon fibre one is stronger but if it does break it will 'broom' into 'harmless' fibres and little damage will be done to the car.
Well thank you, it did take me a while :lol:. Carbon is the way to go for your drive shaft, but it is expensive. After doing that then a lighter fly wheel would do nicely. But i would recomend making it just a little lighter than the standard or you may find it hard to keep your engine idling.