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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Here's a short video I took a while back when I first removed the old air box to show the difference in sound between an induction kit and the standard air box.


In the video you can't hear a lot of difference (well at least I can't) but in person there is a definitive difference especially when the car is under load.

For anyone that is interested the dimensions for the kit are.

A 90 degree bend which exits from the throttle body, purchased from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400315901...00315901000?var=670040095042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Then a 200mm metal pipe joins onto another 90 degree bend which connects to a 50mm metal pipe and a short reducer to take the 2.5" pipe into the 3" K&N filter.

The last bit isn't needed if the filter is a 2.5" diameter.

All in so far the kit has cost me just over ÂŁ85, and it could be done cheaper if you didn't bother with fancy colour pipes/clips etc. so a big saving on a ready made kit.

Whether you'll see any power gains, I don't know, mine is simply there for looks and noise.
 
Looking good m8, cant wait to see it finished. I've just got a EU8 and I'm planning on changing most of parts you have exterior wise. For front end though I'm getting a whole new bumper so grill and lip fits a bit easy, mot as good with filler, lol. What engine is it? D16V1?
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Cheers, bumper was dropped off at the sprayers today, should have it back by Wednesday or Thursday, fingers crossed!

Can't remember the engine code off the top of my head but D16V1 sounds about right, D16V2 comes to mind though could be wrong.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
She's been painted!

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After refitting the bumper and spoiler I also finally got around to fitting up the rear lip and side skirts. I'm really pleased with the whole effect.

I bought a red H badge for the front grille, but I fear I may have bought a facelift badge (if there is one?) as it curves the opposite way to the grille and doesn't sit flush.

As a temporary measure I sprayed the old H badge satin black and stuck that on.

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I got insured on the car from Monday and have already found a fair few niggles. First of which is pictured above and really my fault.

When removing the plastic under tray to remove the bumper I broke some of the plastic rivets as they were quite corroded. I ordered some more but they didn't come through the post in time so instead made a temporary solution of plastic rivets that didn't quite fit and cable ties.

Going down the local bypast the plastic under tray decided to exit the car at 80mph. Bollocks.

Another niggle is that my exhaust scraps somewhere, not sure where yet. My drivers seat squeaks and my passengers side rear door card rattles a lot!

Apart from that she's a good'un, even passed the MOT Saturday morning with no advisories.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
A few more jobs have been jobbed on the Civic since the last update. I still need to buy a new plastic undertray as mine has completely had it. However it has been bodged in placed more securely this time and hasn't exited from the car yet. From the outside it can't be seen unless you're laying on the floor so it isn't much of a priority at the moment.

Sorted out my drivers seat squeak, it was the seat belt holder rubbing on the seat. Adjusted so that doesn't happen anymore.

Took the rear door card off to find that 2 of the 3 screws that hold the rear speaker in place weren't there. With these replaced no more rattle.

My cigarette lighter wasn't working but simply replacing the fuse cured this.

I got fed up with my black H badge on the front so replaced it with a red one to match the rear.

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Finally got a filter to fit the breather on the engine, it had been smelling a bit oily.

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With all this done I was feeling quite happy with the car, that was until the driveshaft snapped.

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It did half go with a bang.

A new one was purchased the next morning after being towed to a mates house and replaced. Took just under an hour, it wasn't too bad a job.

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Although the ÂŁ120 hit wasn't what I needed. The guy at All Parts had a good laugh when I told him the reason I couldn't bring back my old shaft to get my ÂŁ30 surcharge back. lol

And finally a few pictures of the car in all its glory.

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Looks very smart bud.
Some brave moves made mod wise, but i think they have paid off, very pleasing to the eye.
Looks much more poised and aggressive with the kit installed, and a k20 to follow i understand, will be fearsome then!
Oh, and quality detailing too :cool:!
Ta!
James.
 
Compliments well deserved, looks a million miles better than the standard appearance.
At least your wheels are clean, mine are totally battered, previous owners:palm:
Ah well, look forward to seeing more.
Take care.
James.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
The standard wheels are likely to be up for sale soon (if I win my eBay auction that is) first refusal to yourself. ;)

Many plans for this but don't want to give too much away, and I seem to change my mind a lot so not everything I say I'm going to do gets done!

At the moment I want to get some lowering springs, wheels, ICE and tint the windows.

Then I can focus on the K20 conversion before doing anything else.
 
The standard wheels are likely to be up for sale soon (if I win my eBay auction that is) first refusal to yourself.
Much appreciated sir! Unfortunately im post facelift 5 stud, are you going for five stud after the K swap?
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Aww, not too worry buddy.

Yes, I will be going 5stud for the K20 conversion. Plan is to use the whole upright, spring, shock, brakes etc. from the EP3 for my EP2.

Whether this is a bolt on mod or not is to be seen, haven't had confirmation for anyone.

Muki, much appreciated but I'm planning on buying a whole EP3 for my conversion too. Also the wheels I've just bought are 4x100 so I'll be using these for the time being.

Talking of the wheels they were dropped off Friday to be welded, filled, blasted and sprayed. I should have them back next Friday, can't wait.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Got my wheels!

Not exactly sure on the model but they're Kei Racing 17"x7j on 215/40 Nankang NS-2 tyres.

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This was the biggest damage the wheels had. It's on the inside of the wheel but almost looks as if it has been curbed taking a chunk of wheel with it.

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And there they are on the car. The only thing I don't like about these wheels are the fact they're multi-stud so I'm going to see whether I can get some blanking plugs made up.

I also need to get centre caps still but no rush at the moment.

After the wheels I decided it needed some lows.

I bought some second hand Eibach lowering springs off of eBay.

The fronts didn't put up much of a fight and went on fairly easily, however the rears are another matter!

The bottom shock bolt is rusted on so tight I simply can't undo it. Neither can my mechanic mate, cousin or Dad who have all had a go! So I've admitted defeat and am going to go to a unsuspecting garage to get them changed.

Here's the front lowered.

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Next up was fitting a sub and an amp. I bought two Mutant 800W subs in an enclosure with a 1000W Infinity amp from eBay then got a wiring kit from Halfords.

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They sound great and can be heard from a mile away!

With all this done I decided it was finally time to refit my fog lights. After fitting the Mugen front lip they didn't fit and needed modifying so I just left them.

It took nearly 2 hours of fitting then removing modifying to get them sitting nicely. The drivers side sits almost how they did from the factory but the passengers one I removed slightly too much plastic meaning it sits further in than it should.

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I think they finished off the car nicely.

In these pictures you can see the battering my front lip has taken from stone chips. It looks bloody awful seeing as the paint has only be on for 2months! I thought it would look better for a bit longer.

The plan is to get it repainted then fit a clear car wrap to protect it from stone chips.

After all the mods it was time to focus a bit more on regular service items.

New pads were put in front and back and the fluid replaced for new.

The fronts were surprisingly low!

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I had a cutting out problem which I had a thread about here; http://www.hondacivicforum.co.uk/16-engine/34125-car-cutting-out.html.

Which turned out to be low oil, this was topped up rather than replaced as it had, had new oil and filter only 8months prior.

I also wired in the air flow sensor.

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And I got some new LED side lights as well.

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These were given to me at a meet from an ex EP2 owner, he fitted them there and then. Lovely chap!

Whilst I was doing service items I decided to machine polish the whole car. It had been a bit neglected and was starting to fade on the front wings so decided to do the whole car.

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I need a finer compound to finish it off to get more of a mirror shine but it isn't looking too bad now.

Going to clay bar the whole car soon as well which should make a big difference.
 
Epic progress dude, love it!
Wheels are very nice, subs are crazy, lights add a nice touch too :thumbup:!

Those chips are a bitch!, my front end looks similar, 7th gen seems to be a chip magnet.
Maybe a final spritz with something like M205 on the pad after claying will see you right shine wise?
Cheers!
James.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Thanks buddy, appreciated.

Obviously as the Mugen front end is a lot lower than standard it doesn't help on the chip front. I think the main reason for the chips on this particular lip though is the fact it is fibreglass and wasn't etch primed before top coat.

Fibreglass seems to attract a lot of chips if not etch primed first. I may get it repainted next month if funds allow.

Haven't personally used M205, use a lot of Meguiars products however and generally impressed. Might have to give some a go as my current compound is a medium grade and too abrasive for final polishing.
 
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