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Discussion Starter #1
right im a bit peed of with halfords so im turning to anyone who knows about oil. I went and got air, fuel, oil filter, engine oil and gearbox/motor oil. at the desk the lad went off got my bits anyway
the filter was wrong (found out wen i got it drained!) which they swaped for the correct one
and iv checked the manual and the one tube of oil he gave me dont match what honda say to use

i dont understand the different grades thats why i asked them
haynes manuel says

engine oil . multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10w/40 to 20w/50, to api SG/CD or better

manual gearbox . engine oil, viscosity 10w/30 or 10w/4o to api grade SF or SG

halfors suppled . halfords viscosity 10w/40 part synthetic motor oil for petrol engines conforms to international spec API, SL, CF, ACEA, A3, B3
i have this oil in my engine but have not drained the gearbox yet
any help please im on a trip tomorrow and wood rather have the correct oil
 

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Discussion Starter #5
its along walk to the beach with a right step hill comin back. have to admit once i held the lead out the window round a field
HE LOVED IT
 

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what car do you have?

all the api bollocks basically ignore that.
go for a branded oil (castrol/mobil etc)
choose part of fully synthetic. part syn is what i use (i do regular changes-9k miles for normal driving and 6k if im doing hard driving). fully synthetic is more more turbo cars and ones that specify a longer service interval (can do 12k easily). it provides more protection for harder use and is more expensive.
the "weight" of the oil is the most important part. the 1st number is the viscosity at operating temperature. the 2nd number is the viscosity when the oil is cold (where most damage is done). a good oil specified right can protect the engine. doesnt matter if its part or fully synthetic as long as it has the right numbers for the vehicle.
ford zetec engines and most small engined cars and vtec vehicles driven normally (as in vtec is used but not all the time and making the engine work at high temp) require a thinner oil. for ford this is because of small oil channels, same with small engines. 5w30 is normally what is specifed.
bigger engines like 1.9 turbo diesels in VAG specify 5w40 fully synthetic. they dont have as small oil channels but run warmer due to turbo operation. the oil needs to work harder to provide enough protection.

10w40 part or fully synthetic for petrol engines would be what you want. castrol, mobil whatever. basically you get what you pay for. halfords oil conforms to the specification but isnt as good as castrol or mobil.

if i had the money i would be running 5w40 mobil1 fully synthetic and using vtec all the time. but i cant afford the fuel and the added cost so i use part synthetic and do a more regular oil change. as well as driving slower.
 

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sae is the specification it needs to follow. all oils made by branded reputable manufacturers always come on this.

i'd go for the standard 10w40 but part synthetic.

go to honda for the gearbox oil and get some honda MTF (manual transmission fluid)
 

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thats the stuff.
you can use engine oil in the gearbox but the best stuff is specifically suited stuff. just use the same stuff as u have bought! i need to change mine soon but havent got round to it. doesnt always need replacing but i think im going to do it as in the cold i cant get into 1st unless stopped. have had to have not been driving much too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
dont think its been checked in the 12years and 160,000miles its done . but from what iv been told no matter what noises a honda makes they alway run
not like a Fix Or Repair Daily (ford)
 

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i think the 10 years im on honda gearbox oil.

keep them serviced and watch the rust....

always more rust than problems!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
this ones nearly rust free mostly the sunroof corners Dont leak YET
a bubble on the rear arch going to sort soon oh yer and change the drivers door
 
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