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Removing a D15z6 from a 1996 Civic EK3

When doing an engine removal, make sure you have the appropriate tools:

• Spanners (10-20mm)
• 2 x 1/2” drive Ratchet and Sockets (10-20mm) and 32mm deep socket (for the driveshaft nut)
• Big breaker bar
• Bucket for draining fluids and rags for mopping spills/wiping hands
• GT85/WD40 or any good anti seizing lubricants
• Big jack and axle stands
• Screw drivers
• Engine hoist with appropriate safe working load for your engine weight
• Good quality strong ratchet strap or Chains
• Big hammer (soft and hard head)
• Pry bar
• Assortment of punches
• Wide and thin head pliers
• Mole grips/Stillsons
• Adjustable spanner

Try to plan ahead when doing a removal, look over everything and consider all the jobs that need doing. Spray all the bolts that look like they will be tough to remove with some GT85 before you start so that it has time to penetrate. Disconnect the battery before beginning work :D

I highly advise you don’t do this by yourself, have a friend who is competent and safe to work on cars with who will help you in case something bad happens :palm:

If in doubt, take as many photos of things you have taken off/apart to help aid with the putting the engine back in. Take notes of any particular order things should be replaced in. There’s nothing worse than putting the car back together, only to find you forgot to attach something and you have to remove everything again! :thumbdown:

Make sure the place you’re working in has a reasonably flat and sturdy floor. If you’re working outside, check the weather forecasts for bad weather, everything in the engine bay is water proof but it would be pretty miserable taking an engine out in the pouring rain :thumbdown:

When your car is on axle stands, give it a good shake and make sure it’s not going to fall off at any point or give way. If it’s going to happen, at least you were clear of the car and not under it :clap:



The first thing I did was remove the body panels and anything that would get in the way or could possibly be damaged in the removal, plus I wanted to prepare for the wire tuck and bay tidy.

[attachment=10:evc7a0kt]IMAG0805.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Bonnet, bumper and wings removed.

[attachment=9:evc7a0kt]IMAG0806.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Air filter and resonator removed.

Once the body panels and unnecessary parts had been removed, I went about removing the all of the ancillaries connected to the engine that would prevent it from being removed and draining the fluids to avoid leaks. This included:

• Draining the oil
• Draining the coolant
• Removing the exhaust manifold and down pipe
• Removing the battery
• Disconnecting the clutch slave cylinder and moving to one side
• Disconnecting and removing the air box and piping
• Disconnecting the fuel pipe
• Disconnecting the main wiring loom from the engine (located near the fuse box)
• Removing the power steering pump and placing to one side
• Removing the fuse box (only necessary for the wire tuck and bay tidy)
• Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body
• Remove the drive shafts
• Disconnect the gear linkage
• Disconnect vacuum hoses
• Disconnect cabin heating water pipes

Points and observations made during the process:

- Use WD40 or GT85 on the bolts and nuts you intend to remove before starting the job.

- Removing the driveshafts proved to be relatively easy in comparison to most jobs I’ve been involved in removing the suspension and braking components. Undo the lower wishbone ball joint and the lower control arm bolt to allow the hub assembly to be pulled outward and let the splined shaft be wriggled out with some force. When undoing the drive shaft nuts, do this while the wheel is on and car is on the floor as it takes some force to remove this. The nut is usually split pinned in place to stop it undoing or the nut has a bit of it pressed into the spline of the driveshaft. Mine was the latter and proved difficult to push the pressed part out for removal; luckily my friend had a rattle gun in his van which was used to force the nut free and removed it. Use a pry bar or screw driver to prise the drive shafts out of the gear box. Once you have removed the driveshafts, put the suspension back together so that you can still move the car if needs be.

- When you remove the power steering pump, don’t disconnect the pipe work, but just leave pump and filler bottle to one side.

- When removing the clutch slave cylinder, be careful no not to bend the pipes as they can become brittle and any kinks will disrupt fluid flow.

- Don’t bother removing the oxygen sensor from the exhaust, just disconnect the wire and pull the terminal away from its locator on the block.

- When removing the exhaust, start at the bottom where the down pipe connects to the centre section. These bolts are usually very tight so use lots of GT85 to loosen them up. There is another two mounting points which support the exhaust using the engine, one behind the sump and one in the front of the engine bay. Remove the manifold nuts last but leave them on the ends of their studs, this is because the manifold can be quite tight and pulling on it will make it give way sharply; Leaving the nuts on the studs will stop the manifold flying off and doing damage to yourself or the car.

- While undoing the exhaust pipe, undo the gear linkage as it is right next to the down pipe/centre section flange. The first rod is connected with a single bolt which is easy to remove. The second rod has a rubber boot, pull this forward towards the gear box and will reveal a circlip which easily pulls off. Behind the circlip is a hollow pin which has to be pushed out using a punch and a hammer. Once punched out, the rod will pull away from the gearbox. Tie both rods up to the subframe to stop them dragging on the floor. (picture shown a bit further down)

- The last thing I did was disconnect the engine wiring loom from the ECU. To do this you have to remove the side kick panel on the passenger side foot well. Behind this the ECU is bolted to the side with four plugs connected to it. Undo them and pull the loom into the engine bay from the other side. (picture shown a bit further down)

After disconnecting the ancillaries, it’s time to remove the engine. The only thing left to do it support the engine with straps or chains (I used heavy duty ratchet straps) and undo the engine mounts. There is one engine mount tucked up behind the engine under the inlet manifold, two on the passenger side at the front of the car and two on the driver’s side front. Once these have been removed then the engine can be lifted out. In this case the whole process was very easy and straight forward, the engine lifted nearly straight and horizontal out of the bay and needed one small wiggle to free it from trapped wiring loom and engine bay.

[attachment=8:evc7a0kt]IMAG0831.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
One part of the strap supporting the gear box

[attachment=7:evc7a0kt]IMAG0832.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
The other part of the strap supporting the engine by the sump

[attachment=6:evc7a0kt]IMAG0833.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Engine strapped to the hoist and check to see if it fouls anything.

[attachment=5:evc7a0kt]IMAG0835.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Tom checking the engine for fouling as it is lifted while I raise it.

[attachment=4:evc7a0kt]IMAG0836.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
The whole engine lifted from the bay.

[attachment=3:evc7a0kt]IMAG0843.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Engine fully out after carefully lifting it over the car.

[attachment=2:evc7a0kt]Gearbox review.png[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
This picture shows where both the rods are attached to the gearbox. It shows where the first rod I explained is connected by the singular bolt arrowed. Also shown is the rubber boot I explained that you need to pull forward. And the other arrow shows the location of the hollow pin that needs to be punched out. (Shown is the S80 gearbox from my B series engine, but the principle is exactly the same)

[attachment=1:evc7a0kt]IMAG0834.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
This picture shows the location of the ECU in the passenger side foot well. This is accessed by removing the kick panel with a careful tug. Behind you will find the loom connecting the ECU to the engine. Unplug the green terminal and the three terminals at the bottom of the ECU.

[attachment=0:evc7a0kt]IMAG0821.jpg[/attachment:evc7a0kt]
Shown is the bottom side of the fuse box. Remove the three securing bolts for the box and remove the nuts off the two cables you can see going into the top of the fuse box. I labelled these two wires with masking tape to remind me which side they go. Lift the box away from the body work and turn it over, you will be greeted with the same view as above. As you can see above there are four terminals going in to the bottom, unplug them and the fuse box will pull away from the car. No need to label as the terminals is different sizes and they can be easily relocated. They’ll probably be a bit stiff and fiddly, so be patient.



I want to note that this is of my own wording and my own personal advice, but I am NOT responsible for any damage or injury caused by following this guide. Everything in here comes from my own experience, being taught at college and by reading workshop manuals such as Haynes.

Well I hope this helps you on your first engine removal, good luck! :wave:

I want to thank Tom and Gavin for keeping me company and giving me a hand during the process.


Kierano_n
 

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Made this in to a sticky, thank you for the brilliant contribution :thumbup:

I'll add that the mass majority of this guide is applicable to all D and B series engines in 92-00 hatchback and coupe chassis.
 
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