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Discussion Starter #3
That one took me an hour and a half to write :eek: :eek:
I was going to wait till i got home before doing anymore but i did it to help Got-VTEC as he is having a few issues with his car.
What i wanted to really do was actually do picture guides in with them all but as my computer here is pish these will have to do for now ;)
 

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Thanks for the help mate, i apreciate it very much but im a bit confused,

stage 1. 3m rosso polish Red 3m finnishing pad
stage 2. 3m ultrafina compound Blue polishing pad
stage 3. 3m fast cut plus compound 3m Green Pad


stage 1 meaning the first step? should i use:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3M-80345-POLISH-R ... 3a5afc705e

stage 2:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3M-ULTRAFINA-SE-5 ... 414faf3560

stage 3:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/3M-FAST-CUT-PLUS- ... 3eff65d1c9

shouldnt i be starting with the compound first? meaning stage 3? and the polish would come last stage 1?

i mean the technique you use i understand it, but using which 3m products first, i dont get it, i know how to use the buffer and what pads to use but which step comes first?
compound then fast cut plus, and then finally the polish, thats what i would have thought<<


and also for a average sizes hatchback, how much Lt (or gram) of the 3m product would i need

:D long question but hope you understand what i mean
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The reason i go with those steps is stage one is the least aggresive to your paint then if that does not work move to stage two which will is going to be a little more aggresive to the your clear coat and can remove most of the fine marks. Stage 3 the Fast cut compound is a very aggresive compound for the deeper marks but without using a paint thickness gauge its very hard to determine how much clear coat you have on the car and the last thing you want to do is go all out aggresive with your paint and burn through.
The guide is written in this way for the people with slight marks faint scratches and swirls.
I know after seeing your pictures you will be best maybe starting at stage two and if that does not work then go to stage three in all honestly i would not go straight in with the Fast cut. Stage two the ultrafina is a very good product at removing most marks you can also use it on your compounding pad to break the compound down quicker just watch that the panels do not get too hot.
I hope this makes sence its hard to put it all down on here much easier talking it through.
As for ammounts for one car you will only need maybe 250ml of each at most.
Hope this helps bud
 

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yeah atlast i get it thanks alot mate :D
but final question.

so i could just start of the stage 2 with blue polishing pad, but what about after that? would there be swirl marks left from stage 2?
would i need to use another polish to get rid of swirl marks? left from the machine and ultrafina?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got-VTEC said:
yeah atlast i get it thanks alot mate :D
but final question.

so i could just start of the stage 2 with blue polishing pad, but what about after that? would there be swirl marks left from stage 2?
would i need to use another polish to get rid of swirl marks? left from the machine and ultrafina?
The Ultrafina is one of the best for removing the swirls mate then all you have to do once you have done that stage is work your way back onto stage one with the rosso and finishing pad and that should be the car looking all sparkling and flakes popping out of the paint!!!then on to the protection i.e wax by machine and hand sealant but i will be doing a how to guide on that in the next few days ;)

Sorry forgot to add if the swirls are still showing up with the blue pad then give the green cutting pad a try hard to know how hard/soft your paint is without seeing the car
 

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yep, i finally understand it completely, thanks for the guide and advice.
Now i know what to do and how to do it, and what products to use and what pads to use, nice 1 ! :D

Il be waiting for the guide on protection,the wax :D woohooo

hmm that one seems a bit expensive,
how about this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silverline-Silver ... 5886e7508d


those any good?
 

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Another question :D you see when im done polishing and removing scratchs, is it a good idea to start waxing stright away?
or the next day or leave for a few hours or what
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got-VTEC said:
yep, i finally understand it completely, thanks for the guide and advice.
Now i know what to do and how to do it, and what products to use and what pads to use, nice 1 ! :D

Il be waiting for the guide on protection,the wax :D woohooo

hmm that one seems a bit expensive,
how about this one :
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silverline-Silver ... 5886e7508d


those any good?

These ones are Rotary machines and are very brutal and not one i would suggest for a beginner mate. I know the Dual action ones are dearer but going straight onto a Rotary is a whole new kettle of fish (excuse the punt)
Rotarys are used more by Amatuers and the pros it took me nearly a year of practice on old panels and cars before i went onto those kind as they are very dangerous in the wrong hands it can take only a few seconds especially on plastic areas to go right through the paint.
I will have a look today and see if i can find any second hand DA's going about as you dont really need to buy a new one.
As for the protection you can go straight on to it. Will have the guide done by the end of the weekend ;)
Below is a couple of pics not very good quaility of before and after scratch removel from a car i did a while back but it gives you an idea of what can be done.
[attachment=1:eek:aajw9is]fiesta 001.JPG[/attachment:eek:aajw9is]
[attachment=0:eek:aajw9is]fiesta 019.JPG[/attachment:eek:aajw9is]
 

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Alright mate thanks for that, and also the work you did their looks fab^^
you see when i t-cut my scratchs on my car what happened is they disapeared but after a few wash's they just reappeared :(
 

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one thing ive relised is these machines dual action polishers is very expensive for some reason, and the ones that come with the pads (which i need) are even more expensive.
im baffled the rotary ones have speed settings too, wouldnt it be a good idea if i just stick to a certain speed and dont go above it?
whats the difference between these two machines?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Temptation to go a higher speed is always there especially if you are not seeing results very quickly.
Do you know mate its the one thing i have always wondered myself is why they are so much more exspensive. I have 4 machines two rotarys which one was if i remember £80 another one which was £350 but its mental. A cyclone one which has 2 little heads on it which was £120 and also my Meguiars G220 DA which was a couple of years ago now over £180
If you are very careful and dont get too carried away or even better get a few old scrap panels to practice on i would suggest this one for you mate Silverline Silverstorm think Amazon do it at a good price but working slowly is the key as once the paint is gone you cannot get it back
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The speed settings should be labeled on the machine as 1 -6 i have never had that one so untill you get i am unsure if you spread the compound in at speed one then work your way up to speed 4 give the area a few passes with that but very light pressure then work your way back down to one slowly to limit the chances of any buffer trails being left behind then job should be a good one.
One thing i would add is i wouldnt count on the pads being up to much in my opinion if you are going to buy the 3m materials then i would invest in the pads that go with it.
 
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