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Discussion Starter #1
Ok this is not written by me but it was usefull to have when i carried out my swap. so i thought it may come in handy to others, enjoy!

Tools
32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
Dykes (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring
And fluids too:
However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable
So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:
1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room,
2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then you’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where you’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!
6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? I’ll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
A. Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-ass socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.
1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-ass hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing
**CAUTION**
If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.
Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!
7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - there’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well.
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer!!!
So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no sorry i have no pics ill try to find some for the gear linkage pin as that is the most annoying thing about this swap! i no you probably have one already but make sure you keep your haynes manual close by if you decide to do the swap, its a life saver lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not too sure about the b20 chap but the b18 will drop straight in no probs, if its a b18c4 i would reccomend you change the intake manifold to the b16 item so then all the hoses and stuff will just pop back on again! :)
 

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the b18 doesn't drop in!!

i was told it did with my ek4 vti but when we took it appart we found out that two of the mounts are totally different and you need to weld new ones in, its not difficult, but it doesn't drop in, sorry to piss on the fire
 

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Discussion Starter #7
it does in the eg chassis if you bag a b18 from a integra gsr ( a bit rare) they have the same front end as the eg, as does the crx del sol! but i dont know about the ek as i dont own one or have any experience with them.
 

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yeah, sorry it does drop into the eg, but not the ek, the intergra gsr is the civic vti 1.8 engine, as this is whats in my ek.

the swap into an eg can be done in a weekend, it will prob take about 6days if going into an ek
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yea i agree all together the actual swap took me about a weekend maybe a little mor as i got a couple of probs but to get the car road worthy took a extra couple of weeks, yea sorry for the confusion there hugh! i only ment to advise on the eg not ek, i should have made that clear as advice taken the wrong way can be bad!
 

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no worrys, i think i read it too quick, it was a post like this that said they drop into the ek that made me do my swap and find out they dont lol, but glad i did it
 

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what about the wiring loom the thot of it scares me i dont have a clue! :( :- :'( i have no problems fitting the engine but wires argh! what wld be the difference if i have the d16z6?
 

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How much did the insurance hit?? That's all I'm worried about... When I'm ready to do such a swap that is! lol
 

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esikris said:
yeah ben ash it would!
sick im gonna do that next year then XD simple ish job if you have all the looms driveshafts and the like? id really welcome some pointers on how to do this, or any advice people can give, want to make a bit of a sleeper car :cool:

btw, its nash lol just didnt like the look of two N's together so i used one for both 8-|

cheers dude :)
 

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civic94dx said:
would a b16a2 go into a 1.3 dx?
A mighty fine question...

In addition to all the normal swap parts you also need the fuel pump from the donor car, or a new blueprint one (or an uprated if you're feeling flash and going turbo soon afterwards), also new fuel lines are advised.

Other than that, bolt in bolt out same as any other EG, the 1.3 engine has a dodgy hybrid ECU, but the interior electronics are all still OBD1, so you can just use a VTi ecu off the donor car and everything will plug back up just fine.

I know the quoted post was from July but it's for future reference if any other people doing the swap to a DX appear...
 
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