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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I'm new to this forum so apologies if this is something that has already been discussed!

I have a 55 Reg diesel 1.7 which Ive had for nearly 3 years. Last week it suddenly put its glow plug light on and cut out when I stopped at a traffic lights. The AA said this was an intermittent problem and not to worry(!).

That was last Weds - since then it has:
- had the glow plug light come on and remain on intermittently sometimes also cutting out when stopping
- AA came out and said it was the EGR valve which they cleaned and then disconnected (didn't solve warning light but temporarily solved cutting out)
- then the engine management light came on and the car lost power over 60mph and didn't regain it unless switched on and off a number of times
- AA said it was the crankshaft sensor and changed it at a cost of £110!
- both glow plug and engine light went off but then as soon as i hit 60mph, engine light came on again and lost power
- AA said fuel pump!

having lost the will to live at this point (its been 5 days!!) I limped the car to a garage who put their diagnostics on and came up with a selection of faults each time they tested it! - 1st time no issues, 2nd time EGR valve, 3rd time Power steering (!), 4th time fuel pump and so on!

I have put wynns system cleaner in it and taken it for a burn over approx 40mph in an attempt to clear the phantom blockage/create a persistent issue but all it did was again pack up at 60mph and limp along (at worst doing 32mph in 2nd gear on an A road with my foot flat on the floor!!).

Does anyone know what this is please before I end up booking it in direct to Honda for what I think may end up being a very expensive fix :(
 

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Thanks Code7

I have today taken my car into Honda for diagnostics

£57 later they have found 2 POSSIBLE faults (turbo and EGR valve) and switched the fault off, road tested it and it seemed ok!!

Driving it home, it went back into limp mode (this time with no lights!) ARGH!!

Honda's quote for a new turbo (which may or may not solve the problem) was £2K+

Am thinking over my options as i type!

:'(
 

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I've had the limp home problem a few times, not recently though. Whenever it happened, I would pull over, switch off the engine...wait 30 seconds or so (listen for a faint click) then restart. This would set everything back to normal for me. Although I try to drive economically, I have learned every now and again to give it a 'boot' to clean out any carbon build-up... usually up an incline from a slow speed - to the red line, just 'floor it.'

Try using a branded fuel for a while, I find Esso to be good - does not need to be premium. Been using Morrisons with no problems recently too, but every now and again I have a tank-full from Esso.

Good luck... great cars these - mine has just turned over 200K miles and still going strong. Only things to go wrong are anti-lock brake and crank timing sensors... can still get 70-90 mpg on my 100 mile round trip commute when I try.
 

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Hi, did you sort out the problem ? I had the same prob last year, after a trip to Honda prob cured. Look at my posting and you will see what was done.
 

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Hi, apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but this may be relevant to my issue.

Like OP, I have recently purchased an '05 1.7CDTi with approx 77k miles. I am experiencing loss of power / limited revs, following moderate / hard acceleration whilst on reasonable inclines (either ascending or descending - i.e. had it happen going down a slip road, had it also happen going up a steady long incline). There is no indication on the dash that anything is wrong (no EML), and I have plugged in a bluetooth ELM327 OBDII reader (using Torque Android app) and can't see any codes. The loss of power (limp mode?) is persistent until I stop the car, turn of the ignition for 30 seconds, and then start it up again, then everything returns to normal. When I experience power loss, revs appear to be limited to either 2krpm, or 2.5krpm. Only other info I wanted to ask about /mention is that a) my coolant temperature gauge on the dash never goes to the fully 90 Deg position, and b) I recently changed out the MAF (after I stupidly broke the existing unit by stripping the security torque bolts holding in the sensor, instead of taking out the entire assembly.:palm::redface:


Finally, I should just point out that although I have a code reader and am talking about a MAF, I am a complete novice, and have only just started doing some basic maintenance - furthest I've got (on another car) is MAF Clean, oil/oil filter change, and air filter change. So I'm not exactly Ed China.


All input welcome, even if it includes some eye rolling and sighing!
 
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