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My Civic keeps stalling? PLEASE help

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8.6K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  rantomon  
K
#1 ·
95 Civic 1.6 SR VTEC D16Y2.

Every now and then, more often on long journeys, my car will just randomly stall and the check engine light will come on.

Initially I thought it was something to do with the fan switch, because it appeared to always stall when the engine got hot, and the fan wasn't coming on. I got a new switch from a scrappy and it came on after a blast, so I thought I had fixed it.

Next day, it drives 10 miles without stalling, then, on the way back when the engine is cold, it stalls....

Most of the time the engine won't start again until it has sat for a while, sometimes it starts straight back up.

It doesn't splutter or anything, it just cuts out, it's really strange, I've had a look around the engine bay for loose wires, cleaned battey terminals e.t.c, I can't find anything. Also when I wanted it to stall to show my mate what happens it wouldn't do it, I blasted it round the block numerous times and it ran fine, it's very sporadic.

I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to cars, I can do the odd job but I'm guessing I need a diagnostic done? The check engine light doesn't blink when it stalls or anything so I don't know what that means.

When I rev it the revs seem to drop really low before getting back up to idle, and it feels like that could be an issue, then again it probably isn't.

I'm actually completely skint at the minute (student), so I can't just take it to a garage and throw money at them to find out what's wrong, and I can't imagine anyone doing free diagnostics checks, which would be a life saver, just so I know what I'm looking at.

Is there anything I can do myself to find out what is causing this problem? thanks in advance.
 
K
#4 ·
It's warm idle is around 400rpm, after I rev it, it drops down slowly to 100rpm, shudders a little, then stays back at 400.

It seems to go through coolant quite quickly, there doesn't seem to be any coolant in the oil, it's fairly clean, I've also looked extensively for leaks and can't find a thing, it's dry as a bone.

My initial thought the other week was the radiator fan wasn't coming on, i tested it to work, so I thought it was a faulty switch and the car was stalling itself due to overheating or something, got a second hand one from a scrappy and it came on fine, thought I had fixed it, but nope still stalls.

I've noticed when letting it idle when the fan comes on, it will stay on until I start revving the engine at the throttle body, for some reason EVERY time I do this it turns off on it's own? could this have anything to do with it?

I tried heating up the main relay under the dash with a hair dryer to see if that was the problem, still wouldn't stall.

REALLY need some help with this.
 
N
#6 ·
have a look @that relay pull top off dry joint poss should not be loosing any coolant :exclaim: going somewhere? poh stick?/rad weld ?see what that does or pressure test it!!find leak thermostat housing look for blue deposits it dries quick!!heater matrix?/also check wires to therostat housing clean and grease them ?bad signal to ecu? ;)
 
N
#8 ·
shuthanbala1 said:
May be you need to take it to honda, pay them to investigate as it could be a number of things, with them they will tell you whats wrong. Its a small price to pay to be honest than paying for alot of parts, changing them and findin out theres no change or improvement.
Click to expand...


no funds!!!student!!!!£60 ++labour?is that where you take yours ??? ie brake sensor issue????????????? lol
 
S
#9 ·
I havent taken it to honda once, but near me, its a £50 investigation fee and they are 95% gurantee to find the problem for you, and I rather pay that than changing different parts and finding out the problem is still occuring, if I had a engine problem, I would take it to honda definately as many other garages I been to dont have to knowledge and they just say stuff to get you to go away.
 
K
#10 ·
Thanks for the replys, I really don't have £50 for someone to tell me what's wrong with it, honestly.

Stalled twice on the way to college today, second time was outside a garage, got a mechanic to come look at it and it started straight away -_-.

Think it might be the coil....
 
S
#14 ·
change your fuel filter it will suprize you how often its this
check battery terminals for blue / green corrding like a powder almost
check most of the wires you can see no cracks in plastic clips/boxs where the wires go make sure nothings loose .......dont tighten unless its finger loose
and as sumone else has said check your fuse boxes
 
G
#20 ·
Have you got a dirty MAF sensor?, I had the exact same symptoms you describe on a Toyota so don't know if the civic has a similar setup but it was a freeflow air filter I had fitted was making the MAF sensor soot up really quickly, when I took out the sensor and blasted it with some carb cleaner the car was fine after that.
 
B
#21 ·
If anyone would do anything different then please say and I'll correct/change it.



1) Make sure the car is turned off
2) Get a paperclip(or suitable wire) and bend it into a u shape.
3) Reach under the passenger side of the dash and find the service connector (should be a blue plug with 2 wires)
4) Still with the ignition off, insert the paperclip into the service connector to short the two wires.
5) Turn the ignition on until the dash board is illuminated but DO NOT START THE CAR.
6) If the CEL light stays on permanently then you have no problems
7) If it starts to blink then you need to start taking note.


The code is determined by long and short flashes.

A long flash = 10
A short flash = 1

So if you get one long flash, followed by two short flashes, the code returned is 12 - this points me towards the EGR system.

If you have more than one code the CEL will flash them out and continually loop. IE. 12, 14, 15, 12, 14, 15, 12 .....

Here is a list of codes for the 4G Prelude
Although the same for most Hondas.


0 Engine Control Module (ECM)
1 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
3 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP SENSOR)
5 Same as above
4 Crankshaft Position (CKP SENSOR)
6 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT SENSOR)
7 Throttle Position (TP SENSOR)
8 Top Dead Centre Position (TDC SENSOR)
9 No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP SENSOR)
10 Intake Air Temperature (IAT SENSOR)
12 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR VALVE LIFT SENSOR)
13 Barometric Pressure (BARO SENSOR)
14 Idle Air Control (IAC VALVE)
15 Ignition Output Signal
16 Fuel Injector
17 Vehicule Speed Sensor (VSS)
20 Electric Load Detector (ELD)
21 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) Solenoid Valve
22 Variable Valve Timing & Valve Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) Pressure Switch
23 Knock Sensor (KS)
41 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Heater
43 Fuel Supply System

Once you have the codes, I would reset the ECU. You can do this by pulling out the clock/radio fuse from under the hood for a minute or so. or disconnect the battery.

Once reset leave the to car idle for 5-10 mins, then go for a drive again. If your CEL light appears again, do the above steps, if its the same code then more investigation is required.
 
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