anyone whos turbo'd a b,d series

[seanyreeves]

im not here to argue all i simply wanted to state was that d's can take over 200 bhp on a stock bottom end. my boosted d blew a headgasket too but it was cus the fucktard who built it fucked it up. if its done correctly they can take it, its all in the tune.

[Civit]

No probs.... all I'm disagreeing with is the 300bhp that started this thread, concensus of opinion in the states where they have been boosting D's for donkeys is +220 BHP is pushing it with standard rods....

Whats your D running BTW ??

[seanyreeves]

nothign anymore , it was fucked when i bought it, stacked hg's etc. learnt alot from that shitheap. was running 200 at 8 psi though. when i bought arp's and hg to take it to 11 is when i found all the probs

[Civit]

Yeah mine was only running 5psi as standard and that ripped, but it does find all the weak points as I've said.... and eats money

[SaintGrimm]

You can put a turbo on a standard car and see how it goes but sooner or later you will have to spend money....

Heres a clutch plate I shreaded for instance...

I love that picture, always amuses me

[Civit]

I just see it as toasted twenty pound notes

[Vince]

a d16z6 CAN take over 300 bhp on a stock bottom end if you have a good engine. back yard racing have one running 400 bhp on a stock bottom end. and even engines without boost will throw rods like that.

I was under the impression that Backyard Racing use Eagle rods and Vitara pistons in their D16 EG, no?

[jimm1432]

What mileage does it do as a daily driver ? Well over 3k I would have thought !

BTW besides Clinchy how many are running D's with plus 250 bhp.... on Civic.life for instance ?

Mine started as a kit from eBay and evolved over three years while continuing to do 75 miles a day (min) commuting from Essex to London in the rush hour and it still ain't been tuned, its been off the road for the last three weeks to have a new Garrett fitted as my last turbo blew an oil line on the motorway and cooked it.... so I know how hardy they are.

Nethertheless it breaks all the time, two clutches (with third waiting in the wings) Gearbox rebuild, three manifolds, two exhaust changes / mods, three sets of brakes, now this could be the way I drive it or it could be that I put a turbo on a standard engine that had covered 120,000 miles (over 150,000 now)

The point is you are citing a car that does not belong to you and my engine probably stands me in as much as Clinchy's but we have done / gone different ways about doing it.... I could bore you and go in to detail, but the gist is I blew a headgasket and a couple of pistons at an early stage, I decided to go low comp with "H" Beams for the future, I was running 14PSI with my old turbo and somtimes pushing it to 20PSI (prob producing 230 - 240 bhp), now with my new turbo which is rated to 400 bhp, I can carry on pushing it and changing my parameters with out any worries regarding my lump or having to have it tune every time I change something

I know you have more ''D'' experience then me civit but B engine rods can take 400WHP It's the bearings that spin and let the rod go normally. So at 100k+ engines i would recommend getting new shells and a crank re balance. Like seany said even stock cars can throw rods.

you used 2 clutches? the answer is simple buy a GOOD clutch, a stock style or so called organic stage 2 just will not hold up to real abuse, in my car a stage 2 just slips on boost, the stage 3 6 Puck I used after has held up 8,000 miles so far!

same goes for manifolds buy a good CAST manifold for lower powered cars along with some braces on the turbo. Also make sure your exhaust is mounted correctly!! If it's not it will crack your manifold!

civit one thing i would say to you is your untuned, very very bad idea. them h beams and forged pistons will melt like butter once you hit your fuel limit or over-boost. also you could just as easily wash the oil off the pistons doing just as much damage. I'm not saying you car is unsafe but just be careful. also an LSD just makes my civic godly when i'm running high boost but it's not as noticeable at low boost the gain you get.

Do things right the first time it won't fall apart as fast.

If you want to turbo your engine do a few simple things to make it as reliable as you can.

1.get bottom end bearings/shells replaced. If you can afford it get the whole assembly rebalanced it does make a difference!!

2. run a cast manifold and BRACE THE TURBO. It will last without cracking when braced correctly (check engine mounts aren't overly worn also)

3.get a chipped ecu, Don't use a FMU!! and don't jack the fuel pressure up to gain flow. After dyno testing my car a honda fuel pump works great upto 420whp before i had trouble, With testing once the fuel pressure rises above 50psi the flow rate goes DOWN and it couldn't handle 240ish whp. So stock pump + high pressure = big no no The stock 40-47 psi is more then enough for your goal.

4.make sure your oil return and feeds are correctly fitted and the feed doesn't have too much oil pressure for the turbo being used! It'll wear out cheap turbos in no time.

5. Ive had cheap turbo kits before and there's nothing wrong buying them but check EVERYTHING. a cheap waste gate i had leaked, a cheap BOV was too loose and lost boost ect.

6. Get a boost gauge BEFORE you drive the car. You over-boost without enough fuel and it really won't last.

so your minimum shopping list to get 200+bhp is below, you can get more but you just don't need it for the power your after.

ECU
Turbo with feed/return
downpipe
cast manifold
370cc or bigger injectors
new bottom-end bearings
oil filter plate
boost gauge
wastegate (if not internal type)

nothing wrong with filter plates i run one but i have had it leak before and it's very annoying when changing oil filters. make sure it's tight. The best oil feeds Ive seen and one welded into the oil pump on side of block but it requires welding and modding and mite be too much for a small build.

I'm sure things will break on your car but if you check everything before you slap it together you will reduce the chances of a massive fault.

And civit makes good points but learn from others mistakes first when possible

[Civit]

.....I know you have more ''D'' experience then me civit but B engine rods can take 400WHP It's the bearings that spin and let the rod go normally. So at 100k+ engines i would recommend getting new shells and a crank re balance. Like seany said even stock cars can throw rods.

you used 2 clutches? the answer is simple buy a GOOD clutch, a stock style or so called organic stage 2 just will not hold up to real abuse, in my car a stage 2 just slips on boost, the stage 3 6 Puck I used after has held up 8,000 miles so far!

same goes for manifolds buy a good CAST manifold for lower powered cars along with some braces on the turbo. Also make sure your exhaust is mounted correctly!! If it's not it will crack your manifold!

civit one thing i would say to you is your untuned, very very bad idea. them h beams and forged pistons will melt like butter once you hit your fuel limit or over-boost. also you could just as easily wash the oil off the pistons doing just as much damage. I'm not saying you car is unsafe but just be careful. also an LSD just makes my civic godly when i'm running high boost but it's not as noticeable at low boost the gain you get.

We have'nt really mention B series motors mate (even though its in the title), only D series in the thread as they are the ones that let the rods go

I've got an ACT 6 Puck clutch ready to go in as we speak, but until I can get hold of a LSD its pretty pointless really and I ain't got £600.00 to throw at a Quaife at the moment (+ another box build).

The manifold I have now is cast Stainless Steel, my turbo has always been braced, mountings are good and I also run a "Stiffy" stabilising bar!

I have been running a chipped P28 for about a year now, Crome Pro with a base map (tuned by a guy in the states who drags D's told him my set up & it runs like a dream), no fuel cut on mine, 650cc Injectors, Rev limits been raise to 8K, Walbro fuel pump, standard honda fuel pressure regulator (no FMU)

I think its maybe as Ive said.... the 18,000 miles a year I do in it

[jimm1432]

I know we arent talking about B's but I'm talking about any engine (with high mileage) replace the bearing before giving a massive hp increase WILL greatly reduce the risk of spun bearings and rods coming out the side of the block.

As for your tune you are very lucky the map is fueled ok it only takes 4-8 sec to melt your whole piston if your car is hot then it leans out or hot charge temps and being lean, I'm just advising you that you maybe be doing slow damage for no reason not only to your pistons but also the sleeve what is more important.

for example you have 650cc injectors running 14psi of boost @ stock fuel pressure, Ok you say your making 240hp for that you need 555cc flow/min then you want to hit 20psi what i would guess pushes 350hp guessing. then your fuel flow needed JUMPS to 800cc unless you want to max your injectors you should never exceed 80% duty for safety reasons. if boost levels are off just ignore them and go by hp

if you don't want to get a tune atleast find someone with a wideband and drive around check your numbers. if all is ok your sweet.

i'm not trying to be a dick but ive melted engines before with the same attitude you have and it's a shame to ruin a loved project to a bad tune trust me

oh one last thing i do agree that 300bhp (crank) on them skinny d rods would be too much over time 220bhp(crank) sounds ok to me though?

[Civit]

Mate I've burnt out pistons in a high compression build of a 1600 CVH engine in a Ford Escort van

I replaced my main & big end with ACL race bearings when I put the con rods & pistons in, I also had the eagle rods drilled so that they spray oil on the crown of the piston and I've used fully floating wrist pins with extra drilled oil ways in the piston (a bit nosiy on start up but soon goes)

All advice always readily received though, but I not going to push it much more than it is I'm running now, which is 18psi, I keep a regular eye on the plugs and they seem normal colour with no sign of heat or glazing, I've got no knocking, pinking or detonation Etc...

It's going on a rolling road this month so I'll find out anyway in a couple of weeks, I've been to see so many local tuners and as I've said before it's like talking to builders

Where about's you based Jim?

BTW I were'nt having a go.... I know you know your stuff

EDIT:Aah Redhill... I've just noticed !

[jimm1432]

artech are good if you got £400 to throw at a tune, that would include a few hours on the dyno. I know what you mean about alot of the tuners their either dodge or pricey. romain at artech is cool and really know his honda's what most important.
to be honest just buying a wideband would be enough to tune yourself if you don't care about squeezing bhp outta your car.
ive had street tunes that ''feel'' so much better then dyno tunes with much better driveabilty but lacking the best bhp rating or max torque you could be getting when dyno'd.

with your escort u have stock fuel sytem with a chip or upgrade to mfi? the metering head and stuff is so gay on them really resricts the boost you can hold they die after 18psi for long periods. like on way back from cruise on motorway then racing.... nothing like going past people at 140mph then watching them overtake u while ur on the hardshoulder crying.

youve done alot of work on your engine and it's sound very good and you could probley push it very very far with a tune 25psi would be ok all day, you could have a near perfect tune already for all i know but a wideband + m25 can never hurt and alot cheaper then even replacing the rings and a hone for minimal damage. I guess as i've got older and melted to many bikes/cars even my overbore 170cc boat engine for a small dingie i had I just try to get it right before i drive any tuned engine, i can't afford to much anymore

[jimm1432]

im thinking about installing a turbo kit on my d14 engine, although its done 98k it still goes well!
but im just wondering if i do the turbo kit, will will the engine just ruin straight away or will it last a reasonable amount of time?
and apart from the turbo kit, modifying the bumper for the fmic and tuning/remapping the engine, will i have to do anything else
cheers

sorry we highjacked you thread but mostly the questions are answered.

for the bumper i just cut the ribbing on the plastic cover and mounted the fmic to the main bar without cutting any metal because i don't want to weaken the front. it depents what shape honda you have weither you need anything cut.

some turbo kits require you cut the ribbing on the engine so the turbo can fit, check when fitting. commonly if you have to cut the ribbing then you can keep AC if you have it.

If not you have to remove the AC rad, AC compresser and pipes.

You may have to get a silm fan for your rad, or move your rad over to the left.

theres a few things you may run into but thats the fun you'll only know when the kit arrives and you start mocking parts upto the car.

[Edd]

Civit, have a word with Daz (Daz81) at DNR he is very good and reasonable, he is building and tuning my engine.

[Civit]

Civit, have a word with Daz (Daz81) at DNR he is very good and reasonable, he is building and tuning my engine.

Where abouts is he based Edd.... I know of Gotboost also who seems to know his stuff and comes with a rep, but he is in like Wales

[spikeybiker]

i have a d16a1 engine and im thinkin about turboing it

running it at really low compression and not gonna be booting at alot

just want it to have a bit more grunt whern i need it

its done 90K miles what you think guys

[Civit]

If you don't want a lot of power, or are not going to boot it and you want to go the low compression route.... your talking a lot of money would it be worth it ?

Did you mean running low boost and not L C ?

[spikeybiker]

indeed i did mean tht

id be running it at reasonable boost like nothing silly

[Civit]

Yeah everythings possible if you want to spend money

[spikeybiker]

got no problem with the money im just thinking because no ones been talking about turbo'ing an ep2